Light is the single biggest factor in whether a houseplant thrives. Before changing water or fertiliser, check whether the plant is getting the right amount of light in the right place. 100% Local
Plants make their own food from light. When light is too low, growth stalls, variegation fades, stems stretch and leaves yellow. When it is too strong, leaves scorch, curl or bleach. Matching the plant to the spot is easier than trying to fix the symptoms later.
A north-facing window or a spot several metres from any window. Only the toughest plants cope here, such as snake plants, ZZ plants and pothos.
An east window, or a spot a metre or two back from a bright window. Peace lilies and spider plants do well with this soft, filtered light.
Close to a bright window but out of the direct beam, or behind a sheer curtain. Most tropical foliage plants, including Monstera and Fiddle Leaf Fig, want this.
Full, unfiltered sun through a south or west window. Succulents, cacti and sun-loving herbs need this much light.
Moving a plant gradually, over a week or two, avoids shocking leaves that are used to a different level. If natural light is limited, a simple grow light on a timer extends the useful day.
Yes. Direct summer sun through glass can scorch leaves, especially on plants used to indirect light.
They do. A simple LED grow light on a timer adds usable light in dark rooms and through winter.
If you can comfortably read a book there during the day, it is at least medium light. If you need to switch on a lamp, it is low light.
Plants lean toward the light, so a plant left in one position can grow lopsided. Turning it a quarter turn each week keeps growth even. Dust also blocks light: wiping leaves with a damp cloth every few weeks lets the plant use the light it already has, which is especially helpful in dim rooms.
General horticultural guidance for planning only. Verify locally.